In a nutshell. Hidden villages in the hills and moors flanking the Vale of Conwy.
Gerard Manley Hopkins, in his poem ‘In the Valley of the Elwy’, describes an idyllic landscape, inspired by his walks from Llanefydd to Mynydd y Gaer.
“Lovely the woods, waters, meadows, combes, vales, All the air things wear that build this world of Wales;”
This lovely valley hasn’t changed much since Victorian times, where the rivers Elwy and Aled carve their modest way from the moors of Hiraethog.
In fact many great writers have appreciated this valley. Recorded on the monument in Llansannan are five important writers born here between the 15th and 19th centuries. Llansannan was the location of a prisoner of war camp during the First World War – in a mansion requisitioned from the Countess of Dundonald. Sadly it’s no longer there but if you visit, consider how strange it must have been for those POWs in this remote part of Wales.
The church at Gwytherin is dedicated to St Winefrid, who was abbess at the monastery sometime in the mid-600s. The church is surrounded by ancient standing stones, and has been a place of pilgrimage since the 8th century. It is a popular stopping place on the North Wales Pilgrim’s Way, a 133-mile walking route from Holywell in Flintshire, to Bardsey island. For a spot of refreshment or a bed for the night, The Lion has been offering a warm welcome for over 400 years.
Llanfair Talhaiarn is a great place for fishing and walking through its unspoilt scenery including a climb to nearby Mynydd Bodran for spectacular views. Its most famous son was John Jones, the architect who helped supervise the building of The Crystal Palace in London. He was born in The Harp Inn and he died there too; he now lies at rest under the ancient yew tree in the graveyard. He was a noted bard and took the bardic name Talhaiarn, after the monk who gave the village its name.
Come to Llangernyw to marvel at the oldest living tree in Europe. The Llangernyw Yew is thought to be over 4,000 years old and stands in the churchyard of St Digain’s Church. Pop inside to see the font with its worn down edge on one side. It’s thought that it was used to sharpen knives – either by Roman soldiers or the butchers who attended the markets held around the yew tree in the 18th century! Whilst here, visit the Sir Henry Jones Museum, which celebrates his life as a philosopher, keen educationalist and advisor to Lloyd George. The family home has been preserved to display Victorian life in a Welsh community.
For more information on what to see and where to go on Mynydd Hiraethog see the Villages of Hiraethog and Llyn Brenig.
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