Villages of Hiraethog

In a nutshell. Open spaces and open skies, lakes, moors and forests.

The main draw here is Mynydd Hiraethog itself.  This sparsely populated upland expanse of heather moorland and forest, overseen by big skies, has a unique and haunting quality.

Cerrigydrudion is one of the main settlements and a good base for touring this area. The village was a popular stopping place along the ‘new’ A5 in the 18th century, but now you may hear the sound of racing cutting through the agricultural landscape. It’s home to Glan y Gors go kart racetrack, a British Championship circuit and extremely popular as a day out.

Nearby Pentrefoelas is also the start point for many walks to Mynydd Hiraethog, although some may prefer to wait in the village with a cup of tea and something delicious from The Riverside Chocolate House and Tearoom! Drop in to look at the magnificent stained glass windows in the parish church. One of them contains a tiny strawberry and the challenge is to find it. The site once served as church to Ysbyty Ifan, where the Knights of the Order of St John of Jerusalem established a sanctuary for travelling pilgrims. Unfortunately – as it had the power of sanctuary – it became a refuge for bandits and outlaws during the 15th century, causing much trouble for the surrounding towns and villages.

Llanfihangel on the banks of the River Alwen has been a place for rest and refreshment for centuries, for pilgrims, drovers and travellers who passed through the village. The Crown Inn is a grade II listed Welsh Drovers Inn, and was a favourite of William Wordsworth, who penned ‘The Vale of Meditation’ in honour of the landscape he so enjoyed. Famous inhabitants include William Salesbury, a staunch royalist who built a farmhouse on the outskirts of town in 1655, and Owain Jones, who wrote ‘The Myvyrian Archaiology of Wales’ in 1801, which is kept in the British Museum.

Most travellers who venture into Hiraethog inevitably make for Llyn Brenig. The reservoir and its smaller neighbour Llyn Alwen are packed with leisure facilities for walking, cycling, mountain biking, fishing, sailing and birdwatching. There’s an excellent visitor centre at Llyn Brenig too, a good starting point for a deeper appreciation of Hiraethog’s rich heritage and history, which stretches back to prehistoric times.  Enjoy a warming drink, homemade cake or a hearty meal in the waterside café with a panoramic view of the lake and surroundings.

For more cycling, mountain biking and walking (plus horse riding, picnicking and red squirrel spotting) head for the nearby Clocaenog Forest, home to a wide range of wildlife.

The southernmost village in Conwy County is Llangwm, a hamlet that offers some lovely self catering cottages, from which to explore the walking, cycling and wildlife of Mynydd Hiraethog. Maybe also bring a telescope; as there is very little light pollution in this remote area, the skies put on a spectacular lightshow on a clear night. 

This quiet haven has not been without its drama. Between 1886 and 1890, the Tithe Wars raged in North Wales. Welsh farmers became increasingly bitter towards the required tithe payment to the Anglican Church – a church that they neither attended nor supported. Tensions became so high that in 1887 an enforced sale of land and goods to collect the tithe in Llangwm turned into an angry and violent riot, which resulted in 31 protestors being taken to court.

For more information on what to see and where to go around Mynydd Hiraethog see the Elwy Valley Villages.

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